In La., signs of regrowth seen in oiled marshes
Last Modified: Thursday, August 12, 2010 at 9:29 a.m.
Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve update
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Oil Spill May Spell Disaster for Atakapa Indian Tribe.
The town of Grand Bayou, Louisiana, has no streets and no cars, just water and boats. And now the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico threatens the very existence of the Atakapa-Ishak Indians who live there. "We're facing the potential for cultural genocide," says one tribe member.
© 2010 National Geographic; videographer and field producer: Fritz Faerber
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Blog Post: Oil Spill May Spell Disaster for Atakapa Indian Tribe
UNEDITED TRANSCRIPT
In the town of Grand Bayou, Lousiana, the main thoroughfare is the water.
There are no streets, no cars. Everyone gets around by boat.
Just recovered from Hurricane Katrina, the oil from the BP Deepwater Horizon well now threatens this community.
SOUNDBITE: Rosina Philippe, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“Well this is the Grand Bayou Village and we are a subsistence community. We have been here for centuries. And we live here. We make our living from the harvest of the waterways and this is also where we get our food that we eat.”
Rosina Philippe is Atakapa-Ishak, a Native American tribe. Like others, it is not recognized by the federal government.
For decades, the Atakapa and other native groups here have adapted to the loss of wetlands, the encroachment of the oil and gas industry, and hurricanes.
But the latest spill could be the final straw. Fishing and shrimping is at a standstill, and the oil keeps creeping into the marshes.
SOUNDBITE: Maurice Phillips, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“I can’t even think about leaving it. And the way the economy is, where are you going to go and live?”
The largest oil spill in U.S. history is killing wildlife, contaminating beaches and marshes, closing fishing waters and… threatening an entire way of life.
Tens of millions of gallons of crude have spewed into the Gulf of Mexico since the BP oil rig exploded April 20 and sank two days later.
Coastal Louisiana is closest to ground zero. Its fragile wetlands and beaches are oiled and wildlife faces possible mass die-offs.
But on top of the ecological disaster, unique cultures of the people living in Louisiana’s bayous could also vanish.
SOUNDBITE: Rosina Philippe, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“The oil spill has the potential to imperil all of us. We’re facing the potential for cultural genocide. “
Shrimp is a way of life here. Shrimp boats line the canals. Locals lower nets and scoop up the shrimp carried by the current.
SOUNDBITE: Maurice Phillips, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“I’ve been a shrimper all my life, and trapping. That’s all I ever did. We live off the land. We get all our wildlife, seafood, and everything off the land.”
Maurice Phillips has seen the ground vanish beneath his feet. Canals dug for oil and gas exploration decades ago let in saltwater that kills the marsh grasses – hurricanes wash away the soil left behind. And levees keep the nearby Mississippi River from replenishing the soil. A University of New Orleans map graphic shows how wide open water now fills areas once rich with freshwater marshes and wildlife.
Scientists say the Mississippi delta is vanishing at an alarming pace.
Matt Bethel leads a program to combine satellite and other data with the traditional ecological knowledge of Grand Bayou’s residents to try and find a way to restore some land.
SOUNDBITE: Matt Bethel, Environmental Scientist, Univ. of New Orleans
“What they are facing especially in the context of today with the oil spill and everything, they are facing their way of life being changed forever and not being able to keep doing what they love to do, which is shrimping, fishing, trapping.”
The Atakapa recently hosted visitors from Alaska. And while they are distinctive culturally, individuals at this gathering found much in common.
It might seem like they are from worlds apart, but Eskimos and the natives from Louisiana found much in common.
SOUNDBITE: Stanley Tom, Yup’ik Eskimo
“The people here are subsistence here just like in Alaska. The climate is a little warmer, but the landscape is just like my hometown. It’s just like tundra. And when we went boat riding it reminded me of my home.”
Tom and the other visitors from Alaska were attending a conference in New Orleans to focus on climate change and other threats to native communities around the world. The oil spill brought back memories of the 1989 Exxon Valdez accident.
They offered emotional support and advice to their hosts – who are used to a hard life, but fear the spill could be too much to overcome.
SOUNDBITE: Ruby Ancar, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“Nature, you can’t control. You can’t control a hurricane you can’t control a tornado. But when you have things that are man made: that destroys a person’s life or an entire village or an entire community, I mean, that’s uncalled for.“
The Atakapa hope the Gulf disaster will open eyes around the world to the importance of protecting the environment.
SOUNDBITE: Maurice Phillips, Atakapa-Ishak Tribe
“This land to me is like them movie stars in Beverly Hills. That’s my Beverly Hills – Grand Bayou. I love it. I love nature and I love everything about it. It’s everything God created and I love it.”
As Black Mess Nears Marshland, Distraught Fishermen Drop Booms
The worst oil spill in U.S. history has shut down most fishing around here and canceled the shrimp season. Now it’s threatening that ecosystem.
So instead of hauling nets, local shrimpers, crabbers and fishermen are out on Barataria Bay in the temporary employ of BP Plc subcontractor DRC Emergency Services. They’re laying oil- absorbing boom lines to keep the black mess away from the marshlands.
“The marshes two miles south of where we’re at are the actual nurseries where the spawning happens for the shrimp, crab, pogies, snails -- it’s a whole food chain,” says Raymond Griffin, owner of Griffin Fishing Lodge.
Griffin reckons he lost $40,000 in June in canceled fishing trips. He’s making up some of the losses by hiring out boats to the subcontractor, whose personnel are also filling his lodge. He’d much prefer that they were fishermen.
Mike Roberts is among the newly unemployed, his 34-foot shrimp boat idle at the dock. On the day I visited, he got a call from the subcontractor, who will hire his boat for $1,500 a day, probably to haul supplies between here and Grand Isle, 38 miles south, where thick crude has already hit the shorelines.
“I am just so angry,” says Roberts’s partner, Tracy Kuhns of Louisiana Bayoukeeper, an affiliate of the international Waterkeeper Alliance that works to protect waterways. “The only choice these guys have is go work on that spill and risk their health -- or not be able to pay their bills.” Kuhns is concerned about the men handling oil and breathing fumes and smoke from burn-offs.
Delivering Meals
My marshlands tour started when I joined a crew delivering meals to the shrimpers laying boom lines. We took a boat to the back of Boutte’s Bayou Restaurant in Lafitte, loaded 180 dinners of spaghetti and fish, then chugged south, toward Hackberry Bay.
It’s hard to believe that nature has coexisted with oil and gas production for so many decades here. Oak and cypress trees laced with Spanish moss line the shores. In one of them a bald eagle has found purchase. White egrets feed in the shallows while nasty green flies feed on us.
We delivered the meals to several drop-off points around the bays, where shrimp boats are stacked with absorbent booms. Miles of the stuff has been laid on the water in recent days, with a plan to collect and dispose of it eventually, probably by incineration.
“You never know what the end result is going to be really, but so far BP has done everything they said they would do,” Griffin says.
BP’s $5,000
The company has been paying out $5,000 to those who can show their livelihood has been disrupted by the spill, and it promises to compensate businesses like Griffin’s for future losses.
At the same time, BP Chief Executive Officer Tony Hayward has drawn fire for his verbal gaffes, including: “There’s no one who wants this thing over more than I do, you know. I’d like my life back.” That did not go over well with local fishermen, whose lives have been turned upside down.
“I’m in total confusion,” says John Hickman, a shrimp man who quit school in the sixth grade to follow generational footsteps into the trade. “I have no way of knowing where my life is going.”
Hickman, 49, is the father of three and grandfather of ten. He has put $70,000 into his 32-foot boat, and pays $430 a month on its note and $3,000 a year in insurance, among other expenses. “I don’t know whether to pay off the boat,” he says.
Charities’ $100
He and others around Barataria must survive on the scant relief found in $100 food vouchers distributed by Catholic Charities, the recent recipient of $1 million from BP. Anxiety and dread is everywhere.
“It’s going to be bad, but how bad?” he wonders.
The people of Barataria have survived some hellacious storms in recent years, but everyone I speak with agrees that this new disaster is a different order of crisis.
“Everybody comes together in the community to help each other,” says Kuhns, recalling the onslaughts of Katrina, Ike and other killer storms. “You live with it; you rebuild. But this is something we have no control over, and we may not be able to repair it -- not in our lifetimes, anyway.”
(Mike Di Paola writes on preservation and the environment for Muse, the arts and culture section of Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)
To contact the writer of this column: Mike Di Paola at mdipaola@nyc.rr.com.
Last Updated: June 10, 2010 00:01 EDT

















